Choosing the right needle and thread for your fabric is often a process of trial and error. The chart below can provide some guidance, but always test on scrap fabric to find the right combination for your project.
| Weight | Fabric Type | Needle Size | Needle Type | Thread Type |
| Very Fine | batiste, chiffon, crepe, fine tricot, gauze, georgette, lace, lawn, net, organdy, silk, taffeta, tule, voile | 8/60 - 9/65 |
Ballpoint or Sharp/Microtex |
Extra fine mercerized cotton or polyester |
| Light | calico, challis, chambray, charmeuse, eyelet, seersucker, thin linens | 9/65, 10/70, 11/75 |
Sharp/Microtex | Fine mercerized cotton, cotton covered polyester, silk, or synthetic/polyester long-fiber thread |
| cotton/poly knits, jersey, light sweater knit, nylon, stretch terry cloth, stretch velour, tricot | 9/65, 10/70, 11/75 |
Ball point | All-purpose cotton or polyester, cotton wrapped polyester, or polyester long-fiber thread | |
| very stretchy fabrics: lycra, spandex, very stretchy knits | 10/70, 11/75 |
Stretch | Mercerized cotton or polyester | |
| delicate leather, suede | 10/70 - 11/75 |
Leather/vinyl or Sharp/Microtex |
All-purpose cotton or polyester | |
| Medium | cottons, gabardine, gingham, linen, flannel, muslin, poplin, medium weight satin | 11/75 - 14/90 |
Universal or Sharp/Microtex |
All purpose mercerized cotton or polyester |
| light wool, flannel, fleece, chino, percale, pique, velveteen, velour | 11/75 - 14/90 |
Ball point | All purpose mercerized cotton or polyester | |
| medium leather, suede, vinyl | 14/90 | Leather/vinyl | All-purpose cotton or polyester | |
| Heavy | fake fur | 11/75 - 14/90 |
Ball point | All-purpose cotton or polyester |
| denim, drapery, sailcloth, thick wool and tweed, ticking | 16/100 | Denim/jeans | Heavy duty mercerized cotton, polyester, or silk | |
| canvas, duck, upholstery | 18/110 | Denim/jeans | Heavy duty mercerized cotton, polyester, or silk | |
| thick leather, suede, vinyl | 16/100 | Leather/vinyl | All-purpose cotton or polyester |
