Fabric-Needle-Thread Guide

Choosing the right needle and thread for your fabric is often a process of trial and error. The chart below can provide some guidance, but always test on scrap fabric to find the right combination for your project.

´╗┐Weight Fabric Type Needle Size Needle Type Thread Type
Very Fine batiste, chiffon, crepe, fine tricot, gauze, georgette, lace, lawn, net, organdy, silk, taffeta, tule, voile 8/60 -
9/65
Ballpoint
or
Sharp/Microtex
Extra fine mercerized cotton or polyester
Light calico, challis, chambray, charmeuse, eyelet, seersucker, thin linens 9/65,
10/70,
11/75
Sharp/Microtex Fine mercerized cotton, cotton covered
polyester, silk, or synthetic/polyester long-fiber thread
cotton/poly knits, jersey, light sweater knit, nylon, stretch terry cloth, stretch velour, tricot 9/65,
10/70,
11/75
Ball point All-purpose cotton or polyester, cotton wrapped polyester, or polyester long-fiber thread
very stretchy fabrics: lycra, spandex, very stretchy knits 10/70,
11/75
Stretch Mercerized cotton or polyester
delicate leather, suede 10/70 -
11/75
Leather/vinyl
or
Sharp/Microtex
All-purpose cotton or polyester
Medium cottons, gabardine, gingham, linen, flannel, muslin, poplin, medium weight satin 11/75 -
14/90
Universal
or
Sharp/Microtex
All purpose mercerized cotton or polyester
light wool, flannel, fleece, chino, percale, pique, velveteen, velour 11/75 -
14/90
Ball point All purpose mercerized cotton or polyester
medium leather, suede, vinyl 14/90 Leather/vinyl All-purpose cotton or polyester
Heavy fake fur 11/75 -
14/90
Ball point All-purpose cotton or polyester

denim, drapery, sailcloth, thick wool and tweed, ticking 16/100 Denim/jeans Heavy duty mercerized cotton, polyester, or silk
canvas, duck, upholstery 18/110 Denim/jeans Heavy duty mercerized cotton, polyester, or silk
thick leather, suede, vinyl 16/100 Leather/vinyl All-purpose cotton or polyester